Ok boys,. here ya go.this is the right way to setup a car and keep it going the right way....hope you enjoy..ProTow_PDRA (james) let me know what you think about this
STAGING
When you line up at the staging lights, you want to look at the track ahead and make sure you are lined up straight and make sure that no dirt, rubber, oil, water or other debris is in your tire path. The staging and starting lights are known as the "Christmas Tree" or "tree" for short. Most of you will probably be running a full "tree" which means the three amber start ing lights (after the two staging lights) on the tree are used in sequence and a 0.500 second reaction time is considered perfect. On a Pro "tree" the three amber lights are lit all at once and a 0.400 second reaction time is usually considered perfect (0.500 second reaction time "Pro Tree" classes do exist). If you are running a full tree, you usually want to stage first to give yourself time to get ready. On a Pro tree, you usually want to be the last to stage because of the short amount of time you have after the cars are staged and you don't want to be waiting for the other person to stage.
The first two lights on either side of the "tree" are amber in color, are usually smaller in size than the rest of the lights and are the staging lights - the first one is the "Pre Stage" light and the second light is the "Stage" light. As you roll forward, the vehicle enters the line of sight of two beams of light that are aimed across each lane. As you enter the first beam, the Pre Stage light will be lit. You will then need to roll forward to enter the second beam and light the Stage light. Both sets of lights should be lit - if you roll too far forward, the first set of lights will turn off. You can roll forward until just before the light turns off to achieve a deep stage. A "shallow stage" or a "light stage" is when you just turn on the Stage light. If you leave the line at the same time in reference to the tree, a "shallow" stage will produce a better elapsed time (E.T.) but a poorer reaction time and a "deep" stage will produce a better reaction time but a higher E.T. Once both competitors have "staged," the starter will begin the starting sequence. In a "heads up" drag race, both competitors will leave the line at the same time. In a bracket or dial-in class, the competitors will leave at different times based on the difference in dial-in. Dial-in is your expected E.T. In order to achieve a good reaction time, you want to leave before you see the green light - how much before is the difficult part. If you leave to early, you will "red light" and the red light at the bottom of the tree will be lit.
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TIRES
To improve traction - try reducing the tire pressure on the driven wheels (rear tires on a rear wheel drive car). Reduce the tire pressure in one pound increments until your 60 foot times don't improve any more (your overall mph will probably begin to go down due to the increased ]rolling resistance). DO NOT go too low in tire pressure (more than 10 to 15 psi less than the vehicle manufacturer's recommended pressure) and be sure to fill the tires back up to the proper setting before leaving the track. Without sufficient tire pressure, your tires will overheat and/or come off the wheel rim. Try varying the launch rpm - you want virtually no tire spin (roughly 10% is optimal but this is usually very hard to detect). Use a higher launch rpm until you get too much tire spin then back down on the launch rpm. On an automatic equipped vehicle, with the vehicle in drive, hold the brake with one foot and the gas with the other and bring the engine to the desired rpm (do not do this for extended periods of time or transmission damage may result). If the car stills spins the tires, try rolling into the throttle instead of stabbing the throttle. On manual transmission vehicles you may have to slip the clutch off the line - letting out slowly instead of quickly releasing it ("dumping" the clutch). If you have adjustable shocks, try setting the shocks on the softest setting to help improve weight transfer and maintain tire contact. If you get too much rear-end squat or wheel hop, you may need to increase the setting on the rear shocks. The use of stiff or lowering springs can hurt weight transfer and traction. You want a high center of gravity to transfer weight to the rear tires under acceleration (on rwd cars). If the car rolls/twists too much to one side under hard acceleration (rwd) you may need an airbag in the right rear spring - try different air bag pressures until the car leaves the line straight. The most important tip remains to practice. The best way to see how your launch technique is working is to look at the 60 ft times on the timing slips from the track.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TORQUE CONVERTERS
Significant gains in performance, especially on modified engines, can often be realized from proper torque converter selection. This becomes even more true in specialized applications like drag racing where the original equipment unit was designed with far different compromises in mind. A torque converter provides slip and torque multiplication in an automatic transmission. It allows the engine to operate at speeds that are not linearly related to the rear wheels. When selecting a torque converter several key variables need to be considered including stall speed and lock-up capability. Sometimes also called "flash stall", the stall speed of a torque converter is the rpm the engine will go to when the vehicle is at rest and the engine is accelerated to the wide open throttle position (WOT). It is important to keep in mind that the stall speed of a torque converter is not fixed but varies with engine power output and load. A torque converter with a 3000 rpm stall speed on a 300 hp engine may have a 4000 rpm stall speed on a 400 hp engine. The benefit of a "looser" torque converter is that it gets you into the power band of the engine earlier. If the torque converter allows 20% slip and the output shaft is turning at 3000 rpm, the engine will be turning at 3750 rpm. If the engine make more than 20% more power at 3750 rpm than it did at 3000 rpm, then the slip of the torque converter has actually increased power delivery to the rear wheels. A "loose" torque converter often hurts driveability and this must be taken into account when selecting a converter for street/strip applications. A "lock-up" torque converter offers the ability to virtually eliminate the slip in the torque converter and improve its efficiency. Lock-up torque converters are used in most newer production cars to help improve fuel economy. Some drag racing classes do not allow lock-up torque converters. Once you are in the power band of the engine and the slip in the torque converter is greater than the gain in horsepower, it is usually beneficial to lock the torque converter. This will improve elapsed time and especially trap speeds. Torque converter design and selection is an important but often complicated issue. Many of the performance torque converter companies and distributors offer technical support that can be very beneficial in selecting the proper torque converter for your application. Torque converters have many variables and can often be optimized for different racing (either drag racing, auto-x or road racing) and street applications.
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TRANS BRAKE
How does a transbrake work? By simultaneously applying low and reverse, a transbrake holds the vehicles position. When the button is released the reverse hydraulic circuit is instantly dumped allowing the vehicle to launch.
How do I know if I need one? Can a transbrake ever be used on the street, or is strictly a racing product? Transbrakes are only of value for achieving instant reaction times in competitive drag racing situations. Rarely is a transbrake useful in street applications except in true Pro Street scenarios.
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Gear Selection
Gearing (and gear ratio selection) is an important factor in quarter mile performance. Because selecting transmission gear ratios is probably not a possibility for the majority of Team TA readers, we will concentrate on optimizing gearing elsewhere. The two variables to consider are the differential ratio and the tire diameter. It is important to realize that tire diameter changes the final gearing just like a ring and pinion does and that this can often be a much easier way to make small changes to the final drive ratio. Going to a "lower gear ratio" will increase torque multiplication and provide quicker acceleration. When drag racers talk about going to a "lower gear ratio", they are referring to going from a 2.73 to a 3.23 (for example). This means you are going to a higher numerical ratio and increasing torque multiplication. If you want to retain the same final gearing while going to a larger tire you will need to change the differential ratio. One of the advantages of the BFGoodrich Drag Radial is that it is available in many of the common Original Equipment (OE) tires sizes so that you do not have adjust gearing to compensate for tire diameter changes. Most automatic equipped vehicles will come equipped with a roughly 2.8:1 ratio differential. This means that for every 2.8 turns of the input shaft, you will get one turn of the wheels. Manual transmission cars usually come equipped with differential gears that provide more torque multiplication - usually around 3.5:1 (although some small engined vehicles come with even lower gears, roughly 4:1). The manual transmission cars are usually so equipped because they do not have the advantage of the torque converter for torque multiplication (torque converters will be covered in an upcoming article) and because the manual transmission cars usually have more overdriven transmission ratios available to compensate during highway driving. Because most transmissions have a much larger gear spread between the overdriven gears as compared to the lower gears, you want to choose a gear ratio that will not require you to shift into an overdriven gear in the quarter mile. You want to select a differential ratio (and tire size) that will have you cross the finish line just past the power peak of your engine. Depending on the power band of your engine, rpm limiting devices and the safe operating speed of your engine - the proper rpm may be just above the horsepower peak or maybe several hundred rpm past the peak. For example, a 1997 6 speed Camaro or Firebird comes with a 3.42 rear gear. The automatic cars are equipped with a 2.73 or a 3.23. A stock manual equipped vehicle will go through the traps (the timing lights at the end of the track) in 4th gear at roughly 100 mph and 4500 rpm. The driver will have to shift into fourth just before the lights (assuming a 5500 rpm shift point). With a 4.09 rear gear, the car will now go through the traps at roughly the same mph but at approximately 5500 rpm in 4th gear. We can also achieve this with a 4.56 gear and a 28" tall tire (compared to the stock 25.4" tire). In should be noted that what makes a car better for drag racing may not be optimal for daily driving use, gas mileage or other racing applications.
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Camshaft Selection Guide
CAMSHAFT CHARACTERISTICS RANGE SELECTION RANGE 1 CAMS UP TO 195° DURATION @ .050" RANGE 2 CAMS FROM 195° - 214° DURATION @ .050" RANGE 3 CAMS UP TO 215° - 224° DURATION @ .050" RANGE 4 CAMS FROM 225° - 240° DURATION @ .050" RANGE 5 CAMS FROM 241° -272° DURATION @ .050"
Idle Quality Stock idle quality. 18-20" of fld. vacuum. Smooth idle quality. 16-18" of fld. vacuum Fair idle with slight lope. Low Mfld. vacuum, may require vacuum reserve tank. Choppy idle characteristics Low Mfld. vacuum. Will not operate power brakes. Very rough idle. Low Mfld. vacuum. Will not operate power brakes. Power Band Most efficient from idle to 3,000 rpm Best power band from 1,500 to 4,000 rpm Excellent mid range throttle from 2,500 to 4,000 rpm. Excellent top end power from 2,200 to 6,500 rpm. Best power band from 3,200 to 7,500 rpm. Torque Band Excellent low to mid range torque from 1,000 to 2,500 rpm Excellent low to mid range torque from 1,500 to 3,500 rpm Excellent mid to top end torque from 2,500 to 4,000 rpm Excellent top end torque from 2,500 to 6,000 rpm Excellent low to mid range torque from 3,500 to 7,000 rpm RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT Computer Controlled Engines No computer or component modifications necessary. No computer or component modifications necessary. Not recommend for use in 1986 or newer Ford Trucks EFI. Cams w/220 or higher duration may require computer modifications. Not recommend for use in 1986 or newer Ford Trucks EFI. Not recommended without major modifications. Not recommend for use in 1986 or newer Ford Trucks EFI. Not recommended without major modifications. Not recommend for use in 1986 or newer Ford Trucks EFI. Cylinder Heads Stock heads in good condition Stock or slightly modified cyl. heads Good 3 angle valve job is recommended Porting and matching is recommended. Some race preparation necessary Fully race prepared cylinder heads are recommended Axle Ratio Stock ratio. Should now exceed 3.50:1 Stock or slightly improved ratio. Should not exceed 3.73:1 Taller gear recommended 3.55:1 to 3.73:1 Taller gear recommended 3.90:1 to 4.50:1 Taller gear recommended 4.10:1 or higher Compression Stock compression. Should not exceed 9.0:1 Stock compression acceptable should not exceed 9.5:1 Increased compression ratio recommended not to exceed 10.5:1 Increased compression between 10.5 and 11.0:1 Increased compression between 10.75 and 12.5:1 Carburetion Stock carburetion or fuel injection Stock 2 or 4BC or stock fuel injection. Should not exceed 600 cfm W/vacuum secondaries Re-jetted stock or increased cfm rating recommended. Not to exceed 750 cfm Aftermarket 4BC or two smaller cfm 2BC Large aftermarket 4BC, re-jet as necessary Recommended Valve Spring Pressures Seat pressure: 90 lbs Open pressure: 250 lbs Seat pressure: 100 lbs. Open pressure: 265 lbs Seat pressure: 110lbs. Open pressure: 280lbs. Seat pressure: 120lbs. Open pressure: 300lbs. Seat pressure: 125lbs. Open pressure: 325lbs.
* Camshafts in Ranges 1 and 2 are suitable for engines that are stock overall and are in good condition, with stock automatic or manual transmissions; intake manifold should be stock or an aftermarket dual plan; stock lifters, stock ignition system and stock exhaust may also be used.
Unless otherwise noted, Clevite performance engine parts are legal only for pre-1966 California and pre-1968 federally certified vehicles; or for off-road racing vehicles which may never be used upon a highway.
* Camshafts in Ranges 3 are suitable for engines that are stock or Slightly modified, with stock automatic or manual transmissions, with stock or after market dual lane intake manifold and stock lifters. These camshafts are designed for mild performance or off-road use.
* Camshafts in Ranges 4 +5 are suitable only for r acing or for other off-road use, transmissions should be a manual or an automatic with a 2,500 to 3,500 stall converter. If using hydraulic lifters and operating over 7,000 rpm the Rū style anti-pump-up hydraulic lifters should be used. i.e. H817R.
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Shiftpoint
Whether you drive an automatic or a manual transmission equipped vehicle, shift points are an important factor in obtaining the best performance at the dragstrip. Even in an automatic equipped vehicle, you can have varying amounts of control over shift points. Many automatic transmissions will allow you to manually shift the transmission.
To determine proper shift point, it is important to know the gear ratios of the transmission and the power curve of your engine. Some owner's manuals will provide the transmission gear ratios and may even have an engine dynamometer power curve of the engine. If possible, a chassis dynamometer test of the vehicle in each gear is the most helpful. Because the transmission ratios are rarely evenly spaced, your optimal shift points may not be the same for each gear change. Also, because shifting actually takes time and full power is not applied to the wheels during the shift, it can often be advantageous not to shift if the shift is going to occur just before the lights.
In choosing the proper shift point, you are trying to maximize the power delivered to the ground. In terms of the engine power curve, you are trying to maximize the area under the curve. As an example, in a stock 1995 manual transmission Camaro Z28 you have the following:
Ratio Shift RPM @ MPH Drop to RPM 1st gear = 2.66 5500 45.6 3680 25.60 = tire diameter (in) 2nd gear = 1.78 5500 68.2 4017 3.45 = Rear ratio 3rd gear = 1.30 5500 93.4 4231 4th gear = 1.00 5500 121.4 4070 5th gear = 0.74 5500 164.1 3716 6th gear = 0.50 NA NA NA
As you can see, despite the 5600 rpm shift point in each gear, the different gear spreads result in different rpms that the engine drops to when shifted into the next gear. This engine makes its peak horsepower of roughly 255 hp (at the rear wheels) at 4900 rpm. At 5500 rpm the engine is still producing 247 horsepower at the rear wheels. The engine also makes 247 horsepower at and above 4500 rpm. At 3700 rpm the engine is only producing 215 hp so if you shifted at 5800 rpm out of first instead, you would drop to 3880 rpm and the engine would be producing 225 hp at that rpm. If you had an engine that lost power more quickly after it reached its peak it might not be advantageous to shift so far past the power peak.
When determining proper shift points it is also important to consider the safe operating speeds for your engine. Consult your owners manual or your engine builder when selecting shift points. Shifting after the redline or past the safe operating speed of the engine can result in premature engine wear or damage.
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